Belay

For many years a back or shoulder belay was all climbers protected their leader or second with - until the late 1960s when Franz Sticht invented his eponymous Sticht Plate, a revolution in mountaineering safety. Nowadays a belay device is considered essential for climbing and mountaineering but the array on the market can be bewildering. Here are a few notes to help.

If you have any intentions of climbing outside on 'trad' climbs, a belay plate with two slots is recommended as you will probably want to use double ropes at some time, and even if you don't, you will almost certainly have to abseil down double ropes. The safest designs are those that have grooves of some sort that grip the rope such as the BD ATC-XP, Petzl Verso etc, as they have greater braking effect than other plates. And, as lead ropes get ever thinner, this extra braking becomes more important.

Most Belay Devices can also safely be used to abseil with in most situations and few climbers these days would bother carrying a separate Figure of Eight for abseiling (though be aware that they heat up more quickly than a large figure of eight descender). Use of a Prusik Loop or a Shunt to safeguard yourself while descending is highly recommended.

For sport climbing there is a good selection of belay plates designed to make holding falls and holding or lowering off a dangling climber safer, which they do by greatly increasing the friction. Some have moving parts and others manage almost as well without. They almost all only work on single ropes so are not much use for trad climbing, and one would need to carry a separate abseil device on multipitch routes. However, for anyone who goes sport climbing regularly, it is well worth having one sport belay device per team.

Please check out our section on Abseil Knots for some important and potentially life saving information.

Black Diamond ATC-Alpine Guide Green
Black Diamond ATC-Alpine Guide Green
£30.00
2 In Stock

A more compact, lighter version of Black Diamond's ATC-Guide, for those using skinny ropes at altitude.

Black Diamond ATC-Guide Anthracite
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Black Diamond ATC-Guide
£30.00
3 In Stock

A version of the ATC-XP that is designed for climbing instructors.

Black Diamond ATC-XP Blue
SwatchBlue SwatchBlack
Black Diamond ATC-XP
£22.00
3 In Stock

A variable friction version of the ATC which can be used in either direction - an excellent belay plate.

Black Diamond Big Air XP Package
Black Diamond Big Air XP Package
£28.80
£32.00
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Out of Stock

A belay/rappel package, featuring the redesigned ATC-XP and an HMS karabiner.

DMM Pivot
DMM Pivot Pivot-lime-greenSwatch DMM Pivot PivotGreenSwatch
DMM Pivot
£29.70
£32.99
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3 In Stock

State-of-the-art belay device catering for modern techniques and the latest ropes. Standard or Guide mode.

DMM Pivot & Phantom HMS Set
DMM Pivot & Phantom HMS Set
£45.00
£50.00
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2 In Stock

State-of-the-art belay device. Standard or Guide mode. With HMS Krab.

DMM Mantis Orange
MantisOrangeSwatch DMM Mantis
DMM Mantis
£19.80
£21.99
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2 In Stock

Excellent very lightweight modern belay device particularly suited to trad/alpine climbing with double ropes.

Petzl Reverso Red Orange
Reverso2019OrangeSwatch Reverso2019GreenSwatch Reverso2019GreySwatch
Petzl Reverso
£30.60
£34.00
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1 In Stock
A very light, multi-purpose belay/abseil device. It can also be used by instructors bringing up two clients and will lock off automatically if used in "reverso" mode.
Petzl Verso Grey
Reverso2019GreySwatch Reverso2019GreenSwatch
Petzl Verso
£21.50
2 In Stock

A variable friction device, very similar to the Black Diamond ATC XP.

Wild Country Pro Guide Lite
Wild Country Pro Guide Lite Wild Country Pro Guide Lite
Wild Country Pro Guide Lite
£23.40
£26.50
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Back Order

An excellent double rope guide plate that has been trimmed of all excess material.

Wild Country Pro Lite Blue
SwatchBlueGrey Wild Country Pro Lite
Wild Country Pro Lite
£19.50
3 In Stock

Light, intuitive to use and smooth running, the Pro Lite is simple, secure and efficient.

Wild Country VC Pro 2 Gunmetal
SwatchGrey
Wild Country VC Pro 2
£6.99
£17.00
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10 + In Stock

A popular device and very similar to the top selling Black Diamond ATC-XP.

Ocun Habu
Ocun Habu Ocun Habu Ocun Habu
Ocun Habu
£29.95
1 In Stock

Innovative and very lightweight guide type belay device.

Edelerid Giga Jul
Edelerid Giga Jul
£54.00
£60.00
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1 In Stock

Can be used in both standard and assisted braking modes and in guide mode.

Edelrid Mega Jul
Edelrid Mega Jul
£35.99
£40.00
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2 In Stock

Double rope belay device that can be used in guide mode and also has assisted locking for for sport routes.

Grivel Scream
Grivel Scream
£23.00
2 In Stock

Ultra light plate for use with extra skinny ropes from 5mm - 8mm diameter.

Climbing Technology Alpine Up Blue with Concept Screwgate
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Climbing Technology Alpine Up with Concept HMS Screwgate Karabiner
£89.95
£100.00
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1 In Stock

For standard belaying and abseiling and can also be used in guide mode and in assisted braking mode..

Climbing Technology Click Up with Concept HMS Screwgate Karabiner
Climbing Technology Click Up with Concept HMS Screwgate Karabiner Climbing Technology Click Up with Concept HMS Screwgate Karabiner Climbing Technology Click Up with Concept HMS Screwgate Karabiner
Climbing Technology Click Up with Concept HMS Screwgate Karabiner
£72.00
£80.00
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4 In Stock

Innovative belay device that works with dynamic single ropes from 8.9mm to 10.5mm.

Salewa Ergo Belay System
Salewa Ergo Belay System
Salewa Ergo Belay System
£58.50
£65.00
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1 In Stock

A lightweight belay device and belay karabiner with assisted braking for sport climbing.

Black Diamond ATC Pilot
Black Diamond ATC Pilot
£40.50
£45.00
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3 In Stock

A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking.

Mammut Smart 2.0
Mammut Smart 2.0 Mammut Smart 2.0 Mammut Smart 2.0 Mammut Smart 2.0
Mammut Smart 2.0
£32.40
£36.00
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2 In Stock

Excellent no moving parts single rope sport climbing belay device.

Edelrid Pinch
Edelrid Pinch
£85.50
£95.00
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4 In Stock

Innovative assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing.

Petzl Neox
Petzl Neox Petzl Neox Petzl Neox
Petzl Neox
£112.50
£125.00
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2 In Stock

Easy to use belay device with cam-assisted blocking.

Petzl GriGri Turquoise
Grigri2019Mk3TurquoisecorrectSwatch Reverso2019OrangeSwatch Reverso2019GreySwatch
Petzl GriGri
£81.00
£90.00
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2 In Stock

Single rope assisted braking belay device with very smooth lowering.

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