Petzl GriGri +

The GriGri + is an assisted braking device designed for all sport climbers, for both indoor and outdoor climbing. It can be used with all single ropes (though it is optimised for 8.9mm to 10.5 mm diameter ropes) and is suited for intensive use. The reduction handle offers exceptional descent control. There are two usage modes to choose from depending on need: top-rope belay or lead belay. The top-rope belay mode and the anti-panic handle make for a more comfortable belay, making the GriGri + particularly suitable for learning.

Belay device with assisted braking for indoors and outdoors, designed for all climbers:

• Hand motions are the same as with classic belay systems: both hands on the rope. A fall is stopped by tightening the hand on the free end of the rope.
• Can be used with all single ropes, and optimized for 8.9 to 10.5 mm diameters.
• Diagrams for rope installation engraved on belay device (interior and exterior).
• Great durability, for intensive use, due to the stainless steel wear plate.
• Exceptional comfort during the descent, due to the very controlled progression of the rope feed.

Particularly suitable for learning:

• Anti-panic handle: if the user pulls too hard on the handle, the anti-panic function brakes and stops the descent.
• Choice of belay mode, top-rope or lead, thanks to the selection knob: top-rope belay mode facilitates taking up slack and makes for a more comfortable belay.
• Option of locking the belay mode.

Rope compatibility: all single ropes (optimised for 8.9mm - 10.5mm diameters).
Materials: aluminium side plates, stainless steel friction plate and wear plate, reinforced nylon handle.
Certification(s): CE EN 15151, UIAA.

Weight: c 200g.

You might be wondering why Petzl have produced the Neox when they already have the GriGri.

Well, the GriGri is great for most users, especially for Brits who maybe spend a week or two sport climbing per year and the rest of the time are trad climbing on double ropes. Though not sold as a self locking device by Petzl, the GriGri effectively is, and this makes it safe to use by fairly inexperienced belayers as if "in doubt" it locks up. However this extra safety feature is a pain for regular sport climbers who are pushing the grades. When they need slack to clip a bolt, they want yards of it and quickly, so the last thing they need is a belay device that locks off suddenly - hence the Neox, which is aimed at experienced Sport and Competition climbers. This however does mean that the Neox is definitely not self locking in the same way that the GriGri is, and that a hand should be kept on the braking side rope at all times. Also, unlike the GriGri, the Neox is not suitable for indirect belaying, where the device is clipped to a bolt, rather than to your harness, something that is often done if the lead climber weighs a lot more than the belayer.

So, do consider the Neo if you are pushing the sport grades and you and your climbing partner are well used to using assisted braking belay devices.

But, do consider the GriGri if you are only an occasional sport climber and/or you are being belayed by an inexperienced second.