Karabiners

Karabiners or Carabiners (aka "krabs" or "crabs") have been around since at least Victorian times, and were used by continental alpinists prior to the First World War but only really caught on in the British climbing scene in the late 1940s when masses of ex War Department ones became available. In recent years the design of karabiners has gone through a rapid period of evolution with ever lighter and more radical models appearing.

Karabiners were originally made from steel and were Oval, but it was soon found that "D" shaped ones were stronger and that these could be given a greater gate opening by making them as an Offset "D". In the 1970s alloy karabiners replaced steel for mountaineering use as they were so much lighter. Initially these were quite big for strength but improved design reduced the size and weight. Original krabs were Straight Gate, then Bent Gates were developed to allow easier clipping when sport climbing. In the mid-90s, Wire Gates, despite being derided initially as nappy pins, revolutionised karabiner design, enabling considerable weight savings to be made.

Screw Gates are designed for use where it is especially important that the gate remains closed (eg belays) and the HMS version (Halbmastwurfsicherung) was originally designed for use with a Munter (or Italian) hitch for belaying and abseiling, but are now much used with belay devices - though specialist Belay Karabiners, which prevent dangerous cross-loading, are a better choice.

In recent years, new innovative designs have appeared such as Pulley Karabiners and Locking Karabiners that do not have a screwgate.

The strength of karabiners is rated in kiloNewtons (kN) and are usually given for gate closed (along the back), gate open (along the back) and cross-loaded (between the back and the gate). A fall can engender forces of up to ca 6kN so it is important that all aspects of a karabiner are stronger than this. In the early days of lightweight krab design (ca 1980!) gate open strengths were not very high and karabiners could break in a fall if the gates were knocked open or the krab was cross loaded. These days karabiners have very high gate open and cross loading strengths meaning that modern karabiners made by a reputable firm are most unlikely to break.

One thing for certain is that today's climber would probably find it hard to imagine, or indeed manage, climbing without karabiners - they are so fundamental to modern mountaineering, yet British climbers did just that for well over 50 years from the foundation of the sport in the early 1880s and it was only after WWII that they became widely available.

Metolius FS Mini 2 Karabiner - Jet Set 6 Pack
Metolius FS Mini 2 Karabiner - Jet Set 6 Pack
£29.25
£58.50
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10 + In Stock

Hot forged karabiners that are small, light and full-strength. Pack of 6.

DMM Phantom Karabiner Gold
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DMM Phantom Wiregate Karabiner
From £8.99
£9.99
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10 + In Stock

One of the lightest climbing karabiners in the world, but also large enough to be functional. 26g.

DMM Aether Karabiner
DMM Aether Karabiner DMM Aether Karabiner DMM Aether Karabiner DMM Aether Karabiner DMM Aether Karabiner DMM Aether Karabiner DMM Aether Karabiner DMM Aether Karabiner
DMM Aether Karabiner
From £11.69
£12.99
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8 In Stock

Full sized but very light hot forged I-beam karabiner.

DMM Spectre2 Karabiner Red
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DMM Spectre 2 Karabiner
£7.50
£8.99
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10 + In Stock

A great trad wiregate krab at a brilliant price and weighs only 32g.

Black Diamond Miniwire Karabiner Ultrapink
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Black Diamond Miniwire Karabiner
From £8.10
£9.00
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10 + In Stock

An ultralightweight and very small hot-forged karabiner for long trad or alpine routes.

Black Diamond Litewire Karabiner Octane
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Black Diamond Litewire Karabiner
From £8.10
£9.00
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10 + In Stock

A lightweight hot-forged karabiner available in lots of colours - so great for racking.

Black Diamond HotWire Karabiner Light Grey
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Black Diamond HotWire Karabiner
£9.00
5 In Stock

The krab that started the wiregate revolution and still (in the opinions of many) one of the best.

Wild Country Helium 3 Karabiner Green
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Wild Country Helium 3 Karabiner
From £10.35
£11.50
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6 In Stock

The ultimate (?!) in absolute lightweight large wiregate karabiners and very aptly named. Only 38g!

Petzl Ange Karabiner Large Blue
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Petzl Ange Karabiner
£14.50
4 In Stock

Innovative ultra-light compact karabiner with "MonoFil Keylock system". From 28g.

Ocun Kestrel Karabiner Green
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Ocun Kestrel Wiregate Karabiner
£6.75
£7.50
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10 + In Stock

Ultralight small karabiner particularly suitable for trad and alpine climbing. 25g.

Edelrid Nineteen G Karabiner Icemint
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Edelrid Nineteen G Karabiner
From £9.00
£10.00
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10 + In Stock

The first full strength karabiner to break the sub 20g barrier.

DMM Shadow Solid Gate Karabiner
DMM Shadow Solid Gate Karabiner DMM Shadow Solid Gate Karabiner
DMM Shadow Solid Gate Karabiner
£10.35
£11.50
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8 In Stock

Mega-light large solid gate karabiner. Excellent for racking wires.

DMM Alpha Sport Karabiners
DMM Alpha Sport Karabiner
£12.15
£13.50
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9 In Stock

Probably the ultimate solid gate, sport climbing karabiner.

Black Diamond HotForge Karabiners
Black Diamond HotForge Karabiner
£10.00
10 + In Stock

Solid gate version of the HotWire - designed for the sport climbing quickdraws.

Edelrid Bulletproof Karabiners
Edelerid Bulletproof Karabiner
£12.60
£14.00
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4 In Stock

Sport climber's karabiner made with a steel insert at its apex to prevents premature wear.

Fixe Puput Karabiner
Fixe Puput Karabiner
£8.10
£9.00
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9 In Stock

Ideal for sport climbing and is engineered for easy clipping.

Petzl Spirit
Petzl Spirit Karabiner Petzl Spirit Karabiner Petzl Spirit Karabiner Petzl Spirit Karabiner Petzl Spirit Karabiner
Petzl Spirit Karabiner
From £10.80
£12.00
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5 In Stock

Lightweight straight or bent solid gate karabiner particularly developed for sport climbing.

Petzl Sm'D Wall Karabiner
Petzl Sm'D Wall Karabiner
£10.35
£11.50
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2 In Stock

Lightweight and compact, D-shaped straight gate karabiner. A small hole allows things to be attached.

DMM Phantom Screwgate Karabiner
DMM Phantom Screwgate Karabiner DMM Phantom Screwgate Karabiner DMM Phantom Screwgate Karabiner
DMM Phantom Screwgate Karabiner
£13.49
£14.99
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9 In Stock

The lightest full strength screwgate karabiner on the planet. Only 41g!!

Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate Grey
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Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate
£13.00
2 In Stock

A locking solid gate version of the HotWire and is designed for setting up belays.

Petzl Sm'D Screw-Lock Karabiner
Petzl Sm'D Screw-Lock Karabiner
£15.30
£17.00
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4 In Stock

Compact, D-shaped locking karabiner. A small hole allows other devices to be attached with cord.

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