Craignaw

Given a good freeze, Craignaw is the second most important winter venue in Galloway after the Merrick, with major lines like Drainpipe Gully (III 4*), Silver Flow (IV 4**), and the magnificent Dow Spout (II/III***). In recent years a lot of icy mixed routes have been added, and there is probably scope for a few more. Of these latter climbs, the best are Hidden Chimney (IV 5*), Silver Sliver (IV 3*), The Sleigh Team (III 4*) and Full Metal Jacket (II/III).

About a week of heavy night frosts following rain are required for Dow Spout to form, and the other routes need similar conditions (though not the rain); plus a good dusting of snow would not go amiss either.

HISTORY - WINTER
The true first ascent of Dow Spout is uncertain, and it has had several claimants over the years. The earliest definite ascent is that of Mike Gennaro and Calum MacNee in February 1991; however Eric Christison had soloed a line in this area in 1987. The route was subsequently rediscovered and claimed, firstly by Jim Lawrence and Simon Mortlock, and subsequently by Andrew Fraser and Jim Thompson. Fraser also soloed it as a (wet!) summer line (VD) in 2003.

In 1994 Stuart Lampard and Jim Thompson passed by Dow Spout on their way to making the first ascent of Silver Flow, but the lack of previous rain meant there was no sign of an icefall, and also that they met with thin conditions on their route. It was better in 2002 when Stephen Reid and Jim Fotheringham made the second ascent of Silver Flow and added a direct finish and also repeated Dow Spout.

Two days previously Reid had also been involved in the first winter ascent of Drainpipe Gully with Fraser and Ian Magill. Fraser had made the first summer ascent of this climb (with Willie Todd and Alan Sloan) in 1981!

In January 2003 eight new routes were added to the crag, either by Fraser and Magill, or by a large team centred around Reid, consisting of Alan Hinkes, John Biggar, and Steve Prior. Perhaps the best memory on this occasion was Hinkes taking a call on his mobile whist sat at the top of Dow Spout - from Kathmandu!

Photo left: Dow Spout in winter - the route advances in steps with each step gradually getting steeper and longer, culminating in a superb final pitch. Climber Jim Fothingham.

Photos Below Left & Right: Dow Spout - two more veiws - climber: Jim Fotheringham.

Newfoundland
The leftmost slab gives some of the most ungradeable routes in Scotland, let alone Galloway. Maybe they are just boulder problems with long walk-offs! Descents are possible either side.

Going for a Gander 100m+ Easy! Crosses the slab at two-thirds height in either direction - the crux is stepping over the wet streak. A useful descent.

Nova Scotia 60m D *
Climbs the left-hand side of the slab, the best start being 3m left of an obvious vertical crack in the lowest overlap (runner), with a St. Andrews Cross etched in veined relief on the slab above and left (hence the name).

The Road to Wrath 100m HS **
1 50m (3c). From the lowest point of the slab climb easily up and right to cracks and runners at 30m (The Border). Continue straight up between two grass patches, then traverse leftwards to belay on the lower rocks of the upper slab, just west of Glasgow.
2 50m (4a). Step over the overlap and traverse further leftwards to reach a thin crack through the steeper slab above. Climb this crack for a few metres before a traverse can be made back right to Inverness . Make a tenuous move to a good pocket here then up diagonally left to Cape Wrath . Belay using a cracked block a few metres up and left. (The direct line up the A9 from Glasgow to Inverness is also good, but a very unprotected lead).
Linda Biggar, John Biggar, James Kinnaird, 25th June 2006

Flounder 45m VS
(4a). Start at the very toe of the slab and climb the pleasant and easy but unprotected lower slabs to runners at 20m. Continue up towards the obvious triangular niche and enter it from the left. Flounder awkwardly up and leftwards (currently very grassy and mossy) to eventually reach block belays on a large grass terrace.
John Biggar, Ian Brown, 3rd June 2009

MEMORIAL CRAG (NX 458 833) Alt 600m West Facing

This small crag of impeccably clean granite sits immediately below the summit of Craignaw and overlooks Loch Neldricken. Just below the crag is a memorial to two US Airforce pilots who were killed in a plane crash here in 1979. On a sunny day it is an idyllic spot with wonderful views. It is, however, also a long way from anywhere and can be approached (by the ultra enthusiastic) either as for the Dungeon of Buchan, or from Glen Trool (2hrs 30mins minimum). However, from a campsite on the shore on Loch Neldricken, the crag could be easily reached in half an hour.

Although the routes are short, a double rack of cams up to Friend 4 should be considered the minimum, whilst wires are of little use.

Just left of centre of Main Wall is an obvious slightly left slanting crack system

Captains' Crack 23m E1 5b **
Steep and strenuous, but thankfully juggy, and will take as many cams as you can carry. Follow the crack system to awkward moves to overcome a bulge and gain a grass ledge ledge. Move up to a smaller grass ledge on the right and finish up the left slanting cracks above.
SJH Reid, J Biggar, L Biggar, S Baxendale , 1st June 2006

Memorial Wall 23m E2 5c ***
Excellent steep, strenuous and well-protected climbing up the centre of the wall. Start in the centre of the wall, just left of Dynamics Direct. Climb a short layaway crack and swing left to a flat jug. Climb up slightly leftwards to an illusory rest and then make hard up rightwards to grab a hollow horizontal spike and gain a narrow ledge. The short wall and crack above hold interest to the last.
C King, SJH Reid, 15 th June 2006

Aerial Combat 22m E1 5b **
Another fine well protected wall climb. The next obvious feature, some 5 metres to the right, is a short left facing groove that leads at 4 metres to a long, almost horizontal, crack leading rightwards. Climb the groove and gain the ledge at the start of the horizontal flake, then climb up leftwards via hollow flakes to a block. Move left and then climb the wall above trending rightwards to a hard finishing move.
C King, J Biggar, SJH Reid, 15 th June 2006

Just right again are twin crack systems.

Cameater Crack 15m VS 4c
The left-hand crack soon eases off.
J Biggar, SJH Reid, C King, 15th June 2006

Sword of Damocles 15m S 4b *
The right-hand crack is more sustained and interesting.
J Biggar, SJH Reid, 15th June 2006
The sword, which was of an impressive size, was removed by the second en route and can be inspected at the foot of the crag.

Photo Right : John Biggar and Chris King on the first ascent of Cameater Crack (VS). Craignaw Corner takes the groove just left of the belayer. (King coll.)

The cliffs consist of a number of separate buttresses. These and the climbs on them are described from right to left.

Grit Buttress
This tiny buttress lies on the very far right of the crag. The routes here are short but they have a gritstone impact.

Almscliffe V Diff 8m HVS 5b 2007
Start 2m right of the mossy central corner and climb the wall easily enough until an exit leftwards onto a sloping slab.

Goatesque 8m E2 5b 2009
The mossy central corner provides an epic and bizarre battle to gain every centimetre.

Goatzilla 8m E2 5c (2009)
Just left of the mossy corner is a short and deeply undercut arete containing a knobbly spike.
Swing out onto the spike, then puzzle out (quickly) how to stand on it in order to grovel onto the steep mossy slab above. Huff and puff your way directly up the upper wall to a horribly sloping finish.

The left arete of this buttress is a pleasant Mod.

Left again is a long broken ridge which makes a good easy scramble.

Wisdom Wall
This short wall lies on the far right of the crag, just right of The Seven Pillars.

Long Tall Sally 20m HVS 5b 2007
The obvious thin crack on the right of the wall has a hard move to get off the ledge.

Hooves of Fire 20m E1 5a 2007
Climb undercut flakes rightwards up the lower wall and then boldly into a scoop above. Exit up leftwards.

Photo: Wisdom Wall with Andrew Fraser on the first ascent of Hooves of Fire (E1). Swamp Fever (S) takes the left arete, more or less. (Stephen Reid)

The Seven Pillars
The right edge of the crag is marked by a rib, steep at its bottom and with a series of pillars on its left side. The rock is excellent and the climbs are easier than they look.

Cleanliness is Next to … 12m Severe 4a** 2005
Lovely steep climbing on huge holds. To the left of Denali De-Brief is a vegetated area, then a steep buttress above a large boulder. Climb this on its right side, then to the left of the prominent detached block.

Goatliness 12m Hard Severe 4b* 2005
Another steep route with surprisingly cooperative holds. Start at the left edge of the same buttress as the previous route. Climb slightly right, then back left till feet are in the wide horizontal crack near the top. Traverse left into the chimney and up this to finish.

Photo: Ian Magill on the first ascent of Goatliness (HS). (Andrew Fraser )

Burning the Goats 10m* Hard Severe 4b* 2005
Immediately left of the previous route is a blanker pillar, which nonetheless provides a good route at a reasonable grade.

Arabian Nights 10m V Diff 2005
Left of the previous route is an area of more broken ground then a paler buttress. Climb the pale buttress then the groove above with surprising ease.

The Uncarved Block
To the left of the Seven Pillars is a cracked wall.

Pointless of the Snibe 9m Severe 4a 2006
The rounded rib at the right edge of the wall, unsatisfactorily requiring use of the turfy blocks on the right of its lower section. Continue up wall above if desired.

Timorous Cooran Beastie 10m E1 5b** 2006
Superb sustained climbing up the right-hand crack. The easiest line on the top section is not obvious.

Springs of Enchantment 15m E1 5b*** 2005
A classic route which climbs the disjointed cracks in the middle of the wall. While it dries quickly after showers, drainage from further up the hill emerges at the crux, meaning that it is rarely dry earlier in the season. Worth waiting for!

Photo: Andrew Fraser on the first ascent of Springs of Enchantment (E1). (Andrew Fraser coll.)

Ram Attang 16m VS 4c * 2005
5m left of Springs of Enchantment is a wider, rightward sloping crack which gives a fine, sustained climb. Start direct by a 5b boulder problem or as for pitch 2 of the following route. Pitches 1 and 3 of the following route can also be added.

Photo: Alasdair Gillies on the first ascent of Ram Attang (VS). (Andrew Fraser)

Silver Sand 41m VS 4c** 2005
Anther good route in a fine position. Down left of the main wall is a lower buttress with two parallel cracks at its left side. Climb the left one (9m 4b) Climb the crack up the left edge of the main wall to the heather terrace (20m 4c). From the left end of the terrace climb an easy broken rib and then a final friction slab (12m 4b).

The Arete
Across a vegetated gully from The Uncarved Block is the soaring Arete, the longest feature on the crag.

The Call of the Weird 45m VS* 2005
This route takes cracks on the right side of the Arete. Although the start is mediocre, the crux is a not-to-be-missed piece of climbing. Scramble up to gain and climb the crack on the right side of the Arete. Up this till it becomes vegetated, at which point a hitherto hidden series of foot ledges leads memorably left across the wall to gain then climb the Arete to a large heather ledge. (25m 5a) Climb the crack behind the belay, exiting right at its top to climb a rightward sloping gangway. Continue directly to the top (3m below the top it is tempting to pull out left onto a ledge on the Arete - resist the temptation as the huge block is dangerously unstable) (20m 4b).

Photo left: Ian Magill on the first ascent of The Call of the Weird (VS). (Andrew Fraser )

The Arete 50m VS* 1987
Some excellent climbing, improving with gradual vegetation removal. Start on the left side of the Arete and climb short walls to gain a corner just left of the Arete. Climb the corner (not the cleaned crack to its left) exiting left onto a large heather ledge (22m 4b). Easy cracks lead back to the crest of the Arete at a heather ledge. Follow the crack behind the ledge, exiting left onto a ramp. Follow this with difficulty to the very top, ignoring the cleaned crack near the end (28m 4c).
Worth ** (SR,CK)

Photo Ian Magill on The Arete (VS). (Andrew Fraser )

Walk on Hot Coals 47m VS** 2006
The meat of the route is the improbable slab crossed by the ramp of the Arete's top pitch. Follow the Arete to the foot of the corner on it's first pitch, and then climb the cleaned crack on the left wall of the corner (22m 4c) Move left to climb a crack at the right end of the slab, traverse left for 4m to gain a crack and gear, then move slightly back right and commit yourself to the centre of the slab. Follow this to the ramp of the Arete, which is followed left until it is possible to finish up a crack on the right wall of the ramp. (25m 4b).
John Biggar notes: We felt the top slab pitch was 4c, and close to HVS given the poor gear. Though on balance probably just VS with a warning. A very nice pitch though.

Lower Slabs
The following three routes are on the slabs underneath the Philosopher's Stone. The Goat, the Bad and the Ugly 7m VS 5a 2006
An awkward little blighter, taking the groove at the right side of the wall. Let the Goat Times Roll 8m VS 4c* 2006
A fine climb up the cracks left of centre.

Kid's Play 8m Mod 2006
Delightfully easy climbing up cracks on the left edge.

The Alchemists Dream 35m E1 *** 2005
A powerful line giving steep jamming up the right-hand crack. Start up the right crack on the lower buttress, moving left into the scoop at mid-height, then continue up the centre of the buttress to the heather terrace below the upper wall (10m-4a) Sustained and excellent climbing up the right crack leads to a rightward-slanting scoop and cracks which are climbed to the top (25m 5b).
Probably HVS 5b - the difficulties are short and well protected. Not really ***, but definitely worth ** (SR, CK)

Photo: Ian Magill on the first ascent of The Alchemist's Dream (E1). (Andrew Fraser )

Juniper Cracks 32m HVS* 2005
Climb the left crack on the lower buttress (9m 4b). The third crack from the right is Y shaped with much juniper in the right branch of the Y. Climb a combination of the next crack to the left and the left branch of the Y until it is possible to move right above the juniper to gain a groove. Climb this groove to a heather ledge then climb the short wall above (23m 5a).